Antigua is surrounded by 4 volcanoes and they all periodically prove this by spouting steam or ash from the very top. We decided to vist the Pacaya volcano and hike up to the lava fields. The volcano is about 90 minutes away and there are several tour operators who will gladly drive you there and back for $10. But of course we decided to make the drive ourselves so after getting directions from an Inguat (official tourism office of Guatemala) employee we set out for the volcano. Our Guatemala map lacks a lot of detail but we thought with the guidance from the Inguat guy we could have a leisurely drive to the mountain. The drive started out innocent enough, we were right on course…the Inguat guy’s course…, but we soon got a hint of what was to transpire when we stopped for gas and, as I was prepaying the $200 quetzals, the attendant stuck the diesel nozzle into the gas tank to start the fill. I just caught him before he started to pump. I shouted ‘No diesel, No diesel. Gasolina solomente’. The guy looked at me quizzically as if he thought all big vans took diesel. That was one major crisis averted.
The names of the buses reminded us of Stephen King's movie, Maximum Overdrive.
Following the Inguat employee’s directions we ended up being funnelled into Guatemala city but we found our exit and ended up in some small town where the streets were so narrow I could hardly squeeze the van through. Stress is trying to drive that big van through a village full of taxis, buses and people with no street signs or one-way signs or stop signs or traffic lights. BTW, I don’t see how the bus drivers do it. Many times buses have to pull forward then back up many times just to turn a corner. Pat finally took matters into her own hands and with our lacking map got us on the correct road to the volcano. Oddly enough it took about the same amount of time to get there that the Inguat guy had told us. I guess he allotted for snafu's along the way.
We happened on to the Volcan Pacaya “parque entrada” which looked like a bus stop. The van was approached by several Guatemalans who wanted to act as guides. It was a little disconcerting because they surrounded the van. After paying the 40 quetzal per person fee we proceeded to miss the turn off to the parque.
Back on the proper route we were soon on a beat up gravel road to the trail head. Eventually we reached a dilapidated village miles from nowhere and 20 villagers chasing the van to be the first to offer parking, guides, walking sticks and who knows what else. They surrounded the van looking inside. It was scary…almost like out of some movie. I was concerned for the safety of the van but we proceeded on and enjoyed the hike.
The steep 2500-meter trail ended at the foot of the lava flows. We continued on over the hardened flow and you could feel the heat from below the lava but we never saw any free flowing lava. Pictures tell the story.
We were behind this happy group of students on the trail. We followed them in the search for flowing lava, which we never found. The trails change due to lava flow so we tagged along with them once in the lava fields.
One of the many poor children that chased us wanting to sell us sticks for the hike. Pat gave in to one pushy kid, kept the stick and gave it to another to resell....spread the wealth.
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