Saturday, November 29, 2008

Panajachel, Guatemala to Tonala, Chiapas, Mexico

November 29, 2008

After much discussion and gnashing of teeth Pat and I decided to reenter Mexico. Originally we had thought of traveling to El Salvador and further south but decided it would probably be more of the same. And to be honest we have been traveling for 5 months and are ready for a break. The question is where to take the break. We are mulling that over now.
We had mixed feeling about leaving Pana. What a beautiful city and the weather is perfect. Mild days and nights. We discussed staying there for our break but decided it just didn't feel right. We may look back on leaving and find it was a mistake.

Biker coming down 30% grade....~30mph! Bikes are a common mode of transportation for the Guates.

The drive from Pana to Mexico further enforced our view that Guatemala is one beautiful country. Thick forests cover the mountains and birds and animals are everywhere. Maybe the prettiest country we have visited. The people out in the countryside are very friendly and, for lack of a better word, pure. For instance, we stopped for some road construction in the middle of nowhere and some locals were selling snacks and drinks to the travelers. When we told them we had driven the van from Alaska to Guatemala they couldn't hardly believe it was possible. They acted like Alaska was on the other side of the world. We bought some tamalies and drinks from them. As we were driving off they were huddled together talking about what they were just told. These country people can make a living doing almost anything. We see them on the side of the roads carrying wood, selling food, with machetes clearing brush, tending their fields with babies straped to there backs, washing dishes and clothes in the streams. Young and old, men, women and children, it doesn't matter. They are all working. It is all very humbling and uplifting. No welfare in the Latin American countries. You don't work, you don't eat. Maybe the US could learn a lesson from these industrious people.

9800ft above sealevel, above the clouds in Guatemala. Guatemala has rich soil for cultivating food which they export. In some areas farming is out of the valleys onto the mountainside. We noticed they import more junk food than in the mountainous areas of Mexico.
Prevalent biodiversity in Guatemala.
The Mexico part of our drive was easy and uneventful. We ultimately found the Hotel Grajandra in Tonala to be a perfect place to stay with secure parking, internet, air conditioning, strong shower with hot water and a comfortable bed.
Photo right: The Guatemalteca Arch De Triumphe.

For those who may want to know the Mexico entry details on Highway CA-2 read the following:

Crossing the border into Mexico from Tecun Uman, Guatemala on CA-2
Photo left: Not something you see everyday.

Heading north in Tecun you will see a sign that says "Frontier Mexico" (means "border") to the right. Don't take it because it is the border crossing for the big trucks only. Bear left and follow the signs into to Tecun where you turn right when the two-way traffic road you are on turns into a one-way coming at you. Go 1 block then turn left. The border crossing is on the right about 5 or 6 blocks straight down this road. The friendly people will gladly direct you.

You will be directed to turn into a parking lot where one person takes all the passports and the Guatemalan entry papers into a customs building. Again you will be directed there by a guard. There will be "helpers" there to offer their services but they are not necessary. We actually let two guys "help" us and it made the entry more fun. After getting our papers stamped in this building our helpers directed us and the van to the imigration office where an old gentleman ceremoniously "exit-stamped" our passports. No exit fees or copies of documents were required. We were ready for entry into Mexico. The Guat side took about 20 mintues. Es no problema.

BTW, change any Guatemalan currency you have with the guys on the Guat side because we saw now money changers on the Mexico side. Some guy offered to change money for us and when I asked about the tipo de cambio (exchange rate) he said 1.4 pesos to the quetzales. Pat hung her head out of the window and said "He wants to give 1.4. Don't do it. I took his calculator and put in 1.6 and handed it back to him. He put in 1.5 and we struck a deal. I gave him 500 quetzales and he gave me 750 pesos. He still made a good profit. We gave our 2 helpers 50 quetzales to split between them....spread the wealth.

We drove about .5 miles to the Mexico border entry across a bridge. A lady waved us through to a masked guy who sprays some stuff on your tires. After that you pull up to a building on the left where you pay a 50 peso fumigation fee. We pulled up to a building on the right and parked then I handed our passports to a guy who did a quick look in the van then directed me to the passport office. Pat stayed in the van. The passport guy was hilarious. We both had a great time trying to understand each other while he told me to fill out both tourist cards. He never even looked for Pat. He gave us 180 day visas and we have to pay 237 pesos each at a bank in Mexico (who stamps out tourist visas PAID) before we leave the country.

We then proceeded the final checkpoint where a Mexican officer quickly checked the van. We asked him about the Vehiculos Importacion Permite we need to get to have the van in Mexico. He told us that we would get that on the other side of Tapachula, about 30 miles away, and that we would see the checkpoint. I was doubtful because there were roads going everywhere, Pat was non-plussed about the whole thing and said "Don't worry, It'll work out". She was right because after we took this convoluted southern route to get around the traffic of Tapachula there was the busy checkpoint on Highway 200 just northwest of the city. The officer directed me to park on this dusty street just to the right after crossing the checkpoint. We already knew we needed a copy of the drivers passport, the vehicle title and my drivers license for the Permite so we had them ready. But I also needed a copy of my tourist visa which I made at a small store next to the checkpoint. After the clerk had my 4 copies he charged my credit card for about $43 USD and gave me our Importation Sticker and we were on our way. You have to put an Importation Sticker on the inside of the front windshield in the top center. All pretty easy.

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