Tuesday, November 11, 2008

San Cristobal-Tonina-Palenque, Chiapas Mexican Hwy 199

November 9, 2008

The week in San Cristobal was superb but it was time to continue on with our journey. Since leaving we have talked about returning when the evening temperatures warm up. The town has so much to offer: entertainment, authentic native wares, a large zocolo, brightness of the young people, and great food. San Cristobal has to be one of the best hidden gems we've come across.

So, on to Tonina on the way to Palenque. These Mayan ruins are 8 kms and 30 minutes off the main road. Tonina is a large complex with several old temples and buildings. This was the society that brought down Palenque (the beginning of the end) in 730AD however Tonina resisted collapse and the last dynasty held on until around 909AD. Since then it was inhabited intermittently and tombs were reused.

For me the ball court is of interest as it seems most ruins have them. The field for this is narrow, has a stone disc placed in the center, and 45 degree angled walls on the two lengthwise sides to bank the ball back in to court. The balls are made of rubber discovered over 3500 years ago! Morning Glory flowers were used to prevent stickiness and the balls reportedly had incredible bounce. I don't know how the game was played but unfortunately, losing wasn't much fun as some players were decapitated. (Sorry, no photo.)




While there a group of youngsters were re-enacting a traditional ceremony.

The distance from San Cristobal to Palenque was 130 miles north along a very winding road starting at 7000+ft elevation dropping to below 500 ft. We found a hotel in downtown Palenque, found a good restaurant and headed for bed. This town looks more like the US-Mexican border towns, much different than the interior colonial cities.

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