Thursday, November 6, 2008

San Cristobal del las Casas, Chiapas Mexico

November 5, 2008

The city of San Cristobal is the most beautiful of all cities we’ve visited thus far. It is 7000 feet above sea level in a valley surrounded by tree-filled mountains. The sky is clear during the day and temps in the 70-80s, at night it drops into the 30s. Hotels and homes have no heaters, but woodburning fireplaces and locals dress in woolen attire, especially at night.

Our first night we found a lovely hotel on the edge of the Centro and had to get our blankets out of the van because we were so cold. The next day we found a more perfect hotel on the other side of the Centro; Hotel Parador Mexicanos. A small hotel with a nice big room, a soft bed, strong shower with on demand hot water, a walk-in closet, a parking space for the van and a warm heavy blanket (41USDs/d). The best part of all is the tennis court. It’s not in the best of shape but very playable. There is also a local tennis pro who gives lessons for 100pesos/hour (8.34USDs). Luis is an excellent player and coach and donates lessons to local children from poor families. In afternoon Bruce and I played…..it’s like our private tennis court.

Photos: Part of the Zocolo, a central gathering place for performances, to sit, visit and watch the world go by. Our hotel patio and private tennis court.

San Cristobal is a magical city with many indigenous peoples of Chiapas. They sell clothes, wraps, sweaters and jackets that are hand made, mostly with wool. Their items are different than other cities as are the people. The Mayan influence is strong here and most speak TzoTzil and Spanish. The Mayan men and women are short as or shorter than I...I feel a normal size. Bruce and other Europeans tower over these small people. On our 4th day here we saw one homeless person; otherwise the streets are remarkably clean. I was told the reason was shop and home owners are obligated to keep their sidewalks clean. In the morning they scrub the sidewalks with soap and water.

Na-Bolom museum chronicals the Lacondones ppl that live in the forests of Chiapas. A couple bought this old hacienda in 1950s and made it into a museum/bed and breakfast. Worth a visit.
Below is a reconstruction of a mud hut the Lacondones pple live in.





The best pizza in town is found a Bari's Pizza near the market at Santo Domingo Church.

The European feel here is from the Spanish influence. The zocolo expands over several blocks, there seems to be entertainment every night. There are numerous young people hanging out with friends and family every evening. All the restaurants we’ve tried have excellent food and are reasonably priced. This is definitely a place we’d consider staying much longer…..that is if our itchy feet don’t get the best of us.


On the west side of town is a church on a hill with steps leading to it's door. Upon our climb we came across 2 children, ages 4 and 5 asking us our name in English. They pretended to write and said it was for school and they needed money. They are taught to do this by their parents. Locals have told us that children are used to exploit tourists and we found this to be a common ploy. It reminded me of immigrant children in tourist-cental Paris, France whom pull similar froms of money extraction ploys. Although, we're told not to give, we often succumb with the mantra: We have so much, they have so little. We hope it is used wisely.


Photo left is the home these children live, which gets below freezing at night. Above: The stairs to the church in which they await the unsuspecting turistas.

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