Display of small coffins resting in flower pedals.The week-long Spanish class we took in Oaxaca was well worth it. Of the 20 hours I took 10 of those were one on one, the other 10 spent on conversation. Bruce was in the remedial class. There were a few extracurricular activities that allowed us to see more of the Oaxacan lifestyle. This is the week prior to Dia del Muerte (Oct 31 through Nov 2) and there are many celebrations and expositions. Unlike the commercialism of Halloween in the US, the Oaxacans (I assume the Mexicans as well since this is nationwide) celebrate the lives of the love ones now living in eternity. At their place of rest offerings of their favorite foods and items the dearly departed appreciated are displayed. Some left cigarettes, beer and Mezcal . Several displays are done in art form.
Temporary memorials are done in sand, they will be shoveled or swept up after Dia del Muerte. The display of the lady in the pink dress is done with course and fine sand and glitter, it is about 25x25 feet! The one with the brown cross is in sand, the purple cross with flowers, leaves and pedals.
Our Friday morning excursion the school leaders, Iliana and Augusto, took us to Teotitlan del Valle and Santa Maria del Tule. The former had a market selling flowers, food and decorations specific for Dia del Muerte, as well as other regular items. A young Zapotec female took us on a tour of the local church. She explained that the Zapotecs worshiped the sun, moon, plants, animals and flowers prior to the Spaniards arrival. The Spaniards "educated them" on the one God theory. Hence, the Spaniard Dominican friars built a church over the Zapotec worshiping and burial grounds. Partial ruins remain of the Zapotec structure behind the church which is guarded by a legendary “large snake”. No one has dared to excavate these old (>500 yrs old) ruins.
Our guide is a 4th generation Zapotec weaver. Her 94 y/o grandmother is still weaving as well. She took us to her workshop/gallery and showed us how she hand made rugs and dyed them with only organic materials (flowers, leaves, stems, seeds, insects - anything that can provide color wasn’t wasted). This process is incredibly labor intensive and at the end of the tour she showed us her rugs for sale in the $150-900 USDs range.
The last stop for the morning was Santa Maria del Tule, the location of the oldest and largest tree in the world. The Tule tree is over 2000 years old. It brought back memories of the Golden Spruce in Canada, a single special tree memorialized. For 3 pesos each our 9 y/o guide took us around with her laser pointer (a mirror reflecting light to spots on the tree) and showed us several images of animals, there was a zoo in there.
Photos: 2000 y/o Tule tree trunk and photo of the tree from afar.
We met the group in the evening to go to the cemetery. The tombs and headstones were decorated with flowers, food, and photos. The atmosphere was happy and everyone was celebrating the lives of their loved ones. We thought it a great way to spend Halloween. We recalled our last Halloween when the SUVs dropped the kids off on our street some in unimaginative costumes carrying a pillow case asking for treats. We enjoyed seeing how this culture celebrates life and life hereafter.
Our Friday morning excursion the school leaders, Iliana and Augusto, took us to Teotitlan del Valle and Santa Maria del Tule. The former had a market selling flowers, food and decorations specific for Dia del Muerte, as well as other regular items. A young Zapotec female took us on a tour of the local church. She explained that the Zapotecs worshiped the sun, moon, plants, animals and flowers prior to the Spaniards arrival. The Spaniards "educated them" on the one God theory. Hence, the Spaniard Dominican friars built a church over the Zapotec worshiping and burial grounds. Partial ruins remain of the Zapotec structure behind the church which is guarded by a legendary “large snake”. No one has dared to excavate these old (>500 yrs old) ruins.
Our guide is a 4th generation Zapotec weaver. Her 94 y/o grandmother is still weaving as well. She took us to her workshop/gallery and showed us how she hand made rugs and dyed them with only organic materials (flowers, leaves, stems, seeds, insects - anything that can provide color wasn’t wasted). This process is incredibly labor intensive and at the end of the tour she showed us her rugs for sale in the $150-900 USDs range.
The last stop for the morning was Santa Maria del Tule, the location of the oldest and largest tree in the world. The Tule tree is over 2000 years old. It brought back memories of the Golden Spruce in Canada, a single special tree memorialized. For 3 pesos each our 9 y/o guide took us around with her laser pointer (a mirror reflecting light to spots on the tree) and showed us several images of animals, there was a zoo in there.
Photos: 2000 y/o Tule tree trunk and photo of the tree from afar.
We met the group in the evening to go to the cemetery. The tombs and headstones were decorated with flowers, food, and photos. The atmosphere was happy and everyone was celebrating the lives of their loved ones. We thought it a great way to spend Halloween. We recalled our last Halloween when the SUVs dropped the kids off on our street some in unimaginative costumes carrying a pillow case asking for treats. We enjoyed seeing how this culture celebrates life and life hereafter.
A party at the cemetery with the Grim Reaper.
The loved ones of this dearly left him his cigarettes and bottle and celebrate his life.
2 comments:
Which is older, Bruce or the tree?
I walked up to that tree and said " Who your Daddy?" When I got no answer I said "Me, I'm your Daddy."
Viejo Bruce aka Pancho
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